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Exploring Hawaii's ancient myths and legends: Uncover the rich treasures of the Hawaiian Islands on your next family vacation - sometimes hidden

How did Hawaii come to be? Depends upon whom you ask. Put the question to a group of geologists and they'll mention plate tectonics and volcanic hot spots. Go back 250 years, however, and the answer might have been delivered in a song: the kumulipo, Hawaii's ancient chant of creation.

Passed down through generations, the kumulipo provided early Hawaiians with an explanation, in mythic terms, of the origin, beauty, and bounty of the land. Today, such splendor is more likely to be explained in scientific terms, but Hawaii's mythical past remains a living part of the islands--ready to be explored by visitors eager to venture beyond the hotel.

You don't have to go far. Considered one of Hawaii's most sacred places, Kualoa--a place so full of mana (spiritual power) that canoes of old lowered their masts as they passed by--is only half-hour's drive from Honolulu and Waikiki. Admiring its necklace of whitesand beaches set between turquoise shallows and emerald mountains, even now one senses Kualon's rare history. In ancient Hawaii, infant rulers were taken to Kualoa to be trained in the chiefly arts. These days, it's a working ranch and activities center where visitors can head up into the highlands on horseback (or an ATV) or spend the day in the water, jet skiing, scuba diving, or snorkeling. A visitor's center offers information about the history of the area, as well as local handicrafts and food.

For those wanting to take the long way back to town, a stop at the Polynesian Cultural Center, in the north-shore hamlet of Laie, can round out a day and provide you with a solid sense of Hawaii's native history. Tour the Polynesian museum or catch the demonstrations of traditional arts and crafts and hula shows that are offered daily.

What's a trip to Hawaii without a visit to one of the outer islands? There, far from the hustle of Honolulu, Hawaii's past floats a little closer to the surface. On Kauai, for example, legends of Hawaii s Menehune--the "little people" popular in local lore--abound. All around the island are the remnants of fish ponds, walls, and ditches said to have been created by the Menehune. Whether a wholly mythic race or an actual group of people who had lived in Hawaii before Polynesians came from Tahiti in their voyaging canoes, the Menehune had a reputation in ancient Hawaii for helpfulness and mystery, completing huge construction projects overnight. Searching for these places--great to do with kids, especially with the help of one of the many books written about the subject (try Mary Kawena Pukui's Tales of the Menehune)--takes you off the beaten path and into some of old Kauai.

For an especially breathtaking adventure, hike into Hanakapiai, one of the valleys past verdant, sleepy Hanalei. There, in the deep clefts of the Na Pali Coast, the last of the Menehune were said to live. On the trail, see the Kauluopaoa hula heiau (stone platform used for worship) above Kee Beach in Haena, where for generations ancient Hawaiians sent their best dancers to be trained in this most sacred art.

Heading south to Maui, a different kind of legend reigns: that of the demigod Maui, the only god in the Hawaiian pantheon for whom an island is named. Want to learn more of Maui's famous exploits? Take a drive up to Haleakala--Maui's highest peak, at 11,000 feet, and home to the island's only national park. It was there, according to myth, that Maui captured the sun and held it captive to give the Hawaiians more daylight hours. Watch the sunrise, hike along one of the area's many spectacular traits (one crater drops an incredible 3,000 feet), or spend the morning coasting down the mountain on a specially created bike tour. This is a good activity for older kids or active adults.

Perhaps nowhere in the islands, however, is Hawaii's legendary past as alive and well as on the Big Island of Hawaii. Maybe it's because the island itself is alive, growing a few inches a year from its source: the world's most active volcano, Kilauea. At Kilauea, Pele--goddess of the volcano--holds sway, and today evidence of her spirit and image are literally everywhere in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park: from the offerings of pork and gin (Pele's favorites) wrapped in ti leaves, to the steam plumes said to twist into her image. The goddess has even been incorporated into geological terminology: Pele's hair (fine filaments of lava spun into glass) and Pele's tears (tiny droplets of hardened lava shaped into tears) can be seen throughout the park, and at nearby Thomas A. Jaggar Art Museum, local artists render Pele in paint, sculpture, and even lava.

Heading back to Kailua-Kona or the Kohala coast resorts? Stop at Puuhonua O Honaunau on the way, a recreation of an ancient "city of refuge" where those seeking political or religious asylum could go and be absolved of their kapu (taboo) breaking.

If you've time to visit only one of these special places on your next visit to Hawaii--or one of the hundreds of other spots of historic or cultural importance--it is enough to understand what truly makes Hawaii no ka oi--the best. The truly unique blend of a living spirituality and history, along with a vibrant modem culture is one of Hawaii's many wonders, and it is what makes this island paradise endlessly interesting to travelers.

OAHU

Places to visit. In a setting rich with koa wood furnishings polished to perfection, Iolani Palace (522-0822) (*) transports families to the glory years of Hawaiian royalty. Don't miss the newest palace attraction: the Hawaiian crown jewels. Families can also view artist Paul Gauguin's turn-of-the-century take on Polynesia and its denizens at the gracious Honolulu Academy of Arts (532-8700), then see contemporary island artist Pegge Hopper's stylized paintings of strong Polynesian women at her Chinatown gallery (524-1160) Catch a performance at the fabulously restored Hawaii Theater (528-0506). A walking tour with the Chinatown Chamber of Commerce (533-3181) will turn you into an akamai (in-the-know) insider. Round out any Oahu Visit at the Bishop Museum (847-3511), for insight into Pacific Island cultures as well as hands-on fun. As you head east to begin an island loop, make sure to snorkel Hanauma Bay, boogie board Waimanalo, windsurf Kailua, and ring the temple bell at Byodo-In (239-8811), a replica of a Japanese Buddhist temple on Oahu's northeastern shore. At Waimea Falls Park (800-548-6262), play native games like konane, or Hawaiian checkers, explore gardens of botanical wonders, and if the time of month is right, join a full-moon walk.

Places to eat. The hippest jazz brunch in town is served Sundays at The Wild Mushroom (524-8789). The cafe is in the Spanish Colonial Richards Street YWCA, designed by architect Julia Morgan of Hearst Castle fame. Feast at simple dim sum eateries or stylish restaurants like Indigo (521-2900) for Eurasian delights.

KAUAI

Places to visit. Who can forget a young Elvis crooning the "Hawaiian Wedding Song" as his raft glides through a grove of coconut palms in Blue Hawaii, or Mitzi Gaynor washing that man right out of her hair on Lumahai Beach? Hawaii Movie Tours (800-628-8432) can take you there, supplying the appropriate flim clip en route to the location. Even a kayak trip up the Wailua River leads past sites used in Jurassic Park and Six Days, Seven Nights. The red-footed boobies are the stars on Kauai's northern tip. Visitors might get to watch them do their fabulous mating dance at Kilauea Point Wildlife Refuge (828-1413), home to a historic lighthouse and to thousands of seabirds that nest in the rocky cliffs. For down-to-earth pampering the whole family can afford, Island Soap & Candle Works sells heavenly soaps like vanilla orchid or white ginger. Beautifully crafted and packaged, these make perfect gifts to transport favorite island essences back home (800-300-6067).

MAUI

Places to visit. Save time for shopping at Na Mea Hawaii (661-5707) on the grounds of the Baldwin Missionary House. The name, which translates as "things Hawaiian," reflects an inventory from featherwork to fashion by fine island artists and craftspeople. Friday night is Art Night with galleries open to all. Above the bay, join Maui Eco-Adventures' (877-661-7720) new rainforest nature hike to explore diverse species at Maunalei Arboretum, or combine it with their kayak tour of Kapalua Bay.

Places to eat. Up-country, agriculture and creative cuisine seem to thrive at higher altitude. The onions and corn grow sweeter, the herbs more flavorful. Try them on the wildly acclaimed pizza, served with a view at Kula Lodge (878-1535).

BIG ISLAND

Places to visit. The Merrie Monarch Festival (935-9168)*, the grand event of the hula world, takes place each April in Hilo. Any chance to attend this sell-out dance extravaganza allows a remarkable glimpse at how today's islanders perpetuate Hawaiian culture. Across the isle at Puuhonua o Honaunau National Historic Park (328-2326), Hawaiians demonstrate traditional skills like weaving mats, making nets, and fishing. Take a self-guided walking tour, and allow plenty of time to feel the spirit of place.

Places to eat. The ultimate Hawaiian food event will always be the luau, so families should make a point to attend one on any island. On the Big Island's Kona Coast, the Friday night aha aina, or feast, at Kona Village Resort (800-367-5290) has long been considered among the most authentic. Guests in the children's program at this idyllic Polynesian-style resort make their own ti leaf skirts in preparation for the ceremonial event, but non-resort guests are welcome to join in.

MOLOKAI AND LANAI THE ISLANDS LESS TRAVELED

Places to visit. Residents Lawrence and Catherine Aki use storytelling and chanting to share a rich cultural heritage as part of their Historical Hikes West Molokai. They'll take you to sacred shrines and temples, quarries, and royal trails (888-729-0059). A stay in an eco-friendly tent cabin at Molokai Ranch (877-726-4656) is an unparalleled family vacation opportunity. On Lanai, they say the deer outnumber humans, so you may feel like you have the island to yourself. Snorkel Hulopue Beach with its crystalline waters, explore the island by four-wheel-drive--to Garden of the Gods or Shipwreck Beach--or hike to the top of Munro Trail for a panorama of four islands. Go horseback riding in the cool, up-country hills and you're likely to meet nary a soul. Whether on a day trip by boat from Maui or on a long languorous stay, a visit to Molokai and Lanai, the islands less traveled, rewards the visitor seeking an experience well off the beaten path.

GET OUT THERE!

Since many of the places mentioned are vital to contemporary Hawaii's spirit and culture--many heiau, for example, are used for active worship--it's important to observe some rules of etiquette:

Do learn about Hawaii's history, spirituality, and culture. Read up on the islands you're visiting; look in the newspaper for special walking tours, readings, exhibitions, and events. Listening to Hawaiian mele (songs) and watching hula are two ways to learn a lot about Hawaiian history--quite enjoyably!

Do involve children in the learning. Many of Hawaii's stories contain important lessons about observing nature, conservation, and maintaining a relationship with the land.

Do explore, especially in designated historical spots. Mind the signage, and be aware that many culturally significant places, especially heiau, are delicate and considered sacred.

Do pack out what you've packed in. Never take anything: no rocks, shells, sea creatures, flora, or fauna.

Do have fun. Stories are what make a place interesting!

(*) Area code for all numbers is 808 unless noted.

RELATED ARTICLE: ASTON Hotels & Resorts

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Families looking for flexibility and value, along with spacious accommodations, turn to ASTON Hotels & Resorts, Hawaii's leading hotel and condominium resort operator. For a real home away from home, a one-bedroom ASTON condominium provides families with both a separate living room and kitchen, all for much less than the price of two hotel rooms. For a family reunion, condos as large as six bedrooms work wonders, especially with swimming pools, landscaped grounds, and outdoor barbecue grills. At ASTON Kaanapali Shores on Maui, recently transformed by a $5 million lobby renovation, Camp Kaanapali is the best deal in town for children 5 to 10. For a nominal $5 charge, morning and afternoon sessions, complete with nature walks, storytelling, and hula lessons, are offered year-round. With ASTONishing Free Deals, you'll get the fourth night free through June 30, a free luau dinner show, and a coupon booklet with discounts from fast food to fine dining and shopping, plus preferred rates on. green fees at many of Ha waii's finest golf courses. Take a virtual tour of ASTON'S 34 properties on the four major islands at their award-winning Web site.

Hawaiian Airlines

(800-367-5320)

www.hawaiianair.com

Hawaiian Airlines links key West Coast markets with Maui in time for the summer travel season with three daily non-stop flights. The new service from Seattle, San Francisco, or Los Angeles to the Island of Maui is on state-of-the-art Boeing wide-body 767-300ER aircraft. Hawaiian Airlines is also introducing a fourth daily flight between Los Angeles and Honolulu, June 15 through September 2, to accommodate the boost in seasonal demand. Hawaiian Airlines currently offers daily flights between six West Coast cities and Hawaii, as well as more than 120 daily all-jet interisland flights on the new Boeing 717 fleet.

Prince Resorts Hawaii

(866-PRINCE-6)

www.princeresortshawaii.com/family

Families can bask in luxury in two rooms for the price of one with the Prince Resorts Hawaii Family Package valid until December 15, 2002. It gets even better between May 1 and September 30 when kids eat free! Prince Keiki Club offers activities for the children year-round on Maui and the Big Island, from pole fishing to Hawaiian arts, and crafts. Rates at the Hawaii Prince Hotel Waikiki and Golf Club start from $340; Maui Prince Hotel, Makena Resort $350; Hapuna Beach Prince Hotel, $475; and Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, $530

Oahu Visitors Bureau

(877-525-OAHU)

www.visit-oahu.com

On Oahu, you can shop till you drop or swim with dolphins in the wild off the island's west coast. Enter the green veil of rainforest on a family-friendly hike, or thrill to North Shore surf competitions at Pipeline or Sunset Beach. Learn about the cultural significance of healing with Hawaii Wellness Experience, or join locals on Waikiki beach for free movies Saturdays and Sundays at sunset, monthly Sunday brunch, and nightly torchlighting. Oahu's got it all!

Kona Village Resort

(800-367-5290)

www.konavillage.com

Families return generation after generation to Kona Village Resort, because it's an enchanted Polynesian enclave on the Big Island's Kona Kohala coast. Individual thatched-roof cottages overlook historic fishponds or a curving bay whose gentle waters invite guests to snorkel, paddle outrigger canoes, or take a glass-bottom boat ride. Green sea turtles swim with guests, then join them on the beach to soak up afternoon sunshine. The resort's legendary kids program offers cultural and ecological richness with activities like polefishing in the lagoon, examining sea urchins in tidal basins, or creating beautiful flower leis.

Marriott

(800-763-1333)

www.marriott.com

At five Marriott and Renaissance Resorts in Hawaii, families can relax and rejuvenate while enjoying the warmth of traditional Hawaiian hospitality. On Oahu's sunny western shore, JW Marriott Ihilani Resort and Spa at Ko Olina is an off-the-beaten-path family sanctuary with four tranqull beach logoons, 18 holes of championship golf, tennis, and the world-class Ihilani Spa. Families who want to be centered in the heart of the action can choose Waikiki Beach Marriott Reort near the Honolulu Zoo and Waikiki Aquarium, which offers new guest services and amenities after a $60 million renovation, or at the gateway to Waikiki, The Renaissance Ilikai Waikki Hotel which was recently restored with a $27 million enhancement project. At Kauai Marriott Resort and Beach Club, set on 800 lush, tropical acres, parents can indulge in a massage on the beach while the kids join a full roster of activities at the year-round Kalapaki Kids Club. On Maui, the Renaissance Wailea Beach Resort, located on Mokapu Beach, offers access t o three world-class golf courses, 11 plexipave tennis courts, restaurants and lounges, the popular Wailea Sunset Luau, shops, and Camp Wailea Children's Program. Discover exciting values with Marriott's Paradise Plus Room, Car & Breakfast vaction packages.

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